Jr. Leonisa Lescano #670 - Barrio Huarupampa - Huaraz - Ancash - Perú
+51 (043) 628282 / 943512603 / 944984637
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Alpamayo Mountain 5,947M

Duration: 06 Days / 05 Nights


Alpamayo mountain has been considered the "Most Beautiful Mountain in the World wide" by his great beauty flouted icefall on the south – west face & perfect pyramidal shape on the north side in Jancarurish valley, nowadays the normal route is located in Santa Cruz valley on the west wall on the directa francesa route, this route require a wide knowledge, good shape and technique to climb. Maximum altitude: 5947 m. (Alpamayo summit).

Program

Day 1: Huaraz at (3100m) – Caraz at (2200m) - Cashapampa at (2970m) – Llama coral at (3760m). (Driving time: 3 hours / trek time: 4 hours (walk up).
Departure from Huaraz at 7:00 am, along Callejón de Huaylas until Caraz then we will continue driving on dirt road until Cashapampa village at 2900 m, where we are going to meet with our donkey drivers; From this village our climb gears will be transported by donkeys until Llamacoral campsite. Overnight camp at Llamacoral

Day 2: Llama Coral at (3760m) - Alpamayo base camp. at (4330m). (Trek time: 5 hours (walk up).
After our breakfast at 8:00e will walk up along Quebrada Santa Cruz on the way passing by two beautiful glacier lakes until Quisuar then we will walk up on several switchbacks to Base Camp at 4300m. Overnight at Alpamayo base camp.

Day 3: Alpamayo base camp at (4300m) - Moraine Camp at (4900m) - Alpamayo high Camp I at (5400m). (Climbing time: 8 hours (ascent).
This day after our breakfast at 6:00m we usually start walking up the steep path with porters help until reach moraine camp at 4900m, from this place we will put on our every climb gear and tools, then we will start climbing up toward high camp over the glacier with Porters help, It’s a big day; the high camp is usually located on the high pass between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. In the afternoon we will enjoy gorgeous west wall of mount Alpamayo with spectacular sunset. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.

Day 4: Alpamayo high Camp at (5400m) - Alpamayo summit (5947m) – high Camp at (5400m). (Climbing time: 14 hours (ascent & descent).
Summit day, Rising early at 1:00 am, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face, from it we will start climbing up the huge flouted ice wall o directa frances route with 500m of ice wall, with 60° - 70° & 80° pitches, After climbing for many hours we will reach the top, where we are going to have the most spectacular view about glacier lakes, several snowcapped peaks around us as: Huandoy, Pisco, Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Pirámide Garcilazo, group Pucajircas, Taulliraju and Huascaran mountains . We usually Descent on the same route with rappels until High Camp. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.

Day 5: Alpamayo high Camp at (5400m) – Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m). (Climbing time: 6 hours (descent).
After our breakfast we will start descending with two rappels at the first time then we retrace toward Base Camp. Overnight at base camp Alpamayo.

Day 6: Alpamayo base camp. at (4300m) – Cashapampa at (2970m) – Huaraz. (Trek time: 7 hours (walk down).
We walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until Cashapampa village at 2970m, where will be waiting us our private transport to drive Huaraz. End our expeditions.

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Jr. Leonisa Lescano #670 - Barrio de Huarupampa - Huaraz - Ancash - Perú


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